🔗 Share this article ‘Every Chef Ought to Study Here’: Unassuming Turkish Restaurant Secures 4th on List of London’s Top Restaurants. When curating a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred venues. Yet, tucked near the top among these culinary titans is a simple salonu found in a far-flung part of north London. A Surprise Accolade The compact Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. The honour has made the owners totally astonished. “I am totally surprised,” remarks a proprietor, pointing to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their modest restaurant securing such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list. A Appeal of Simplicity The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its original feel. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” comments the owner. The Signature Creation: Tantuni Ultimately, it is all down to the fare, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent quality. The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside. It is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together. Beyond the Basic Tantuni Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”. When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and less sickly flavour. Surpassing the Titans Remarkably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations. While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that amount. The Philosophy of Warmth It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner. “In my view what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.” This view is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”. The Story of Dedication In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son. Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work. “My mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects. A Achievement for the Culture This restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate beyond its own doors. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this culinary honour.